Radiant heat from the fire and fire­box is the only source of warmth from an ordinary fireplace. Almost no heat is produced by air currents. Air passes through the fire and up the chimney, carrying the heat ab­sorbed from the fire with it. At the same time, outside air at a lower temperature is drawn into the room. This cold air is especially noticeable to anyone sitting away from the fire, because heat radiation, like light. travels in straight tines. A Majestic Circulator piece of fireplace equipment corrects this problem in two important ways: 1st, it captures a part of this up-the-flue heat and makes it available for use, and 2nd, it draws in the colder air moving toward the fireplace, heats it, and gently circulates it into the room to warm those sections not directly bathed in the radiant rays. Tests have shown that the heated air delivered from the discharge grilles represents a heating effect equal to that from nearly 40 square feet of cast-iron radiation of an ordinary hot-water heating system. Where more heat is wanted, electric fans inside the cold air grilles change the Circulator from gravity to forced-air operation.

Heating chamber encloses unique

Majestic's exclusive Radiant Blades are welded sol­idly to the firebox at the sides and back. Warmed by conduction through the metal walls, they have the effect of greatly increasing the heating surface ex­posed to the air stream. They also help create turbu­lence in the air stream that causes each particle of air to "wipe" against the metal for more efficient heat transfer, meanwhile guiding the air over the hottest parts of the unit. They also strengthen the metal sides, preventing buckling and distortion of the firebox walls.

Easy-acting built-in damper

Another Majestic Circulator feature is the built-in damper with its ingenious poker-operated control. It is one of the most satisfactory im­provements in damper controls offered by any manufacturer in many years. A simple friction device holds the valve at any desired position in the opening arc. The amount of friction can be adjusted easily at any time- The control holds the valve tightly shut, and the formed edge of the valve, prevents warping, keeping the blade always in alignment with the frame.

Heat can be piped to other rooms

To distribute heat to other rooms, on either the same floor or the floor above, piping or runs can be utilized in the same manner as is done with a warm-air furnace. For upstairs rooms, rectangular wall stacks are used, and the registers are placed in the side walls of the room. To increase the amount of heat delivered to these rooms, special Circulator fans may be placed inside the cold air grilles- These fans change the operation of the Circulator from a gravity to a forced-air type of heating unit, increasing the dis­tribution of heat.

Outlets handily located at sides

The Circulator piece of fireplace equipment is designed so that grille openings can be arranged for any type of mantel. The warm air outlets are in the upper front portion of either side, and the cold air openings are directly beneath them at the bottom of the casing. This arrange­ment allows many variations in the place­ment of the grilles at the front, at the sides, or combinations of side and front-economically and without loss of efficiency.

Exclusive Angle Seals are adjustable

Majestic Circulator "Angle Seals" are a feature which as­sures a neatly finished installa­tion. For best operation and to avoid the possibility of cracking the masonry through expansion of the steel, a half-inch of glass fiber insulation is placed around the entire unit. At the sides of the fireplace opening, where this insulation might protrude, the Angle Seals adjust to cover the gap, leaving a neat metal trim between the masonry face and the Circulator.

FACE OF A FIRE PLACE

FIG.1 Plan of hearth at floor level.

When installing a Majestic Circulator Fireplace, the mason should carefully read all the directions to be sure he understands how the work should be done. Complete instructions are included with each indi­vidual Circulator.

FIG.2 Circulator in position on hearth.

First, he should inspect the Circulator to make sure the insulation and all acces­sories are readily at hand. Then he should check the dimensions of the footing, being sure that the firebrick hearth is perfectly level, with the ash dump approximately in the center of the firebox after the unit is set. The hearth should extend beyond the sides and back of the unit, and at least flush with the front.

FIG.3 Adjustable angles.

After the Circulator has been set, and before any brick work is started, the in­sulation should be unpacked and applied around the bottom of the Circulator. Use double insulation at the corners and be sure the entire unit is covered. A thin mortar applied to the Circulator will hold the insulation in place.

Plumb the brick work against the ad­justable angles at either side of the open­ing so the angles will always cover the space between the brick work and the unit.

By setting a few bricks, the mason can gauge the size of the mortar joint and see that the corner breaks at the end of the brick. If a fan is used, the conduit for a power line should be built into the ma­sonry. Bring the outlet boxes as near to the grille boxes as possible for easy con­nection by the electrician. Always use two fans, one in each cold air box.

FIG. 4 Start of brickwork.

If the fireplace is on an outside wall and the provision for an outside air inlet is desired, it will be necessary to cut an opening approximately 16 inches wide and eight inches high in the back of the casing; then connect with the adjustable ventilator grate.

FIG. 5 Setting the lintel.

Next, the lower, or cold air grilles, should be set in place. The masonry may then proceed upward in the regular way. always keeping a ½ insulation between the Circulator and the masonry. The masonry must support all weight of the chimney. The Circulator is not to be used as a support for the masonry.

FIG. 6. Cover the entire Circulator with insulation malarial

When the brick work reaches the top of the fireplace opening, sot the angle iron lintel to support the brick work above the opening. The lintel should be at least 3½" by 3½" by ¼. being sure that it clears the Circulator by ½". Pad the lin­tel at the ends and back with plenty of insulation.

Set the upper 1 warm air) grilles in the same manner as was done with the cold air grilles. Finish the inside of the duct connecting the Circulator casing with the grille frame smoothly, but do not run the finishing coat of mortar against the Cir­culator casing itself.

FIG. 7. Air inlets and outlets may be located cither at lid* or front.

The height of the brickwork compris­ing the face of the mantel must be at least one inch above the top of the housed por­tion of the Circulator. When this point is reached, cover the entire top of the Cir­culator with insulation. Then set 5" by 5" by ⅜"angle iron across the brick work to support the masonry above, and pro­ceed to make a tight connection to the flue.

In building a low-type mantel, when the face of the Circulator piece of fireplace equipment has been built up to the desired mantel height, drop back to where the dome angles away from the face of the fireplace and cover the dome with insulation material. Then apply ma­sonry in the space between the fireplace face and insulation until it is flush with the top of the face. Be sure to make a tight joint with the flue.

Do not build a hot fire in the fireplace until the mortar dries thoroughly, which will probably take two or three weeks.

FIG.8 Warm air outlets may be placed above	FIG.9 Schematic assembly of ashpit, hearth and the circulator

The arrangement of two fireplaces on different levels, including the use of a cleanout door adjoining the basement fireplace, has be­come quite popular with the trend toward basement recreation rooms.

Often, the chimney used for the living room fireplace is also used for the one in the basement, but here, many mistakes are made as to ventilation of both fireplaces through the same flue, or the un­necessary elimination of an ash­pit for the living room fireplace.

Each fireplace should have a separate flue. If it becomes neces­sary to slope the flue, it should not exceed the rate of seven inches of slope per foot of rise and should take off from the center of the smoke chamber, with the entire slope taking place above the chamber.

The ashpit for the "upstairs" fireplace can be located right next to the basement fireplace, which if properly constructed, will give the basement fireplace the ap­pearance of having an adjacent oven. And if proper care is taken when removing the ashes, having the ashpit in the basement recre­ation room presents no problem.

In any location where a fireplace can be used, you can be sure there is a Majestic Circulator Fireplace to fit your needs. An attractive exterior can be built around any of the different sized units to harmonize with any architecture. Inlet cold air and outlet warm air grilles are available, or they can be made of wrought iron or other material, adding ornamental value as well as utility to this exceptionally fine unit.

When selecting the proper size Circulator, careful consideration must be given to the size of the room in which the fireplace is to be located, the amount of space to be heated, the heating efficiency of the fireplace, and the size of the flue. To insure good draft, the size of the fireplace opening should not be more than 10 times the net inside area of the flue.

Circulator Grilles

Grilles for warm and cold air open­ings are available in the pressed steel style, finished in antique bronze lac­quer.

NOTE: The flue should extend at least 3' above a flat roof or 2' above ridge of a hip roof. Where two flues are built in the same chimney, the tile of one should extend 6" or 8" above the other as they emerge from the top of the chimney. It is also recommended that a chimney cap be used where heavy snows or rains are nor­mal. Spark arrestors are required in some areas. Check the latter with your local building inspector.

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